Your complete guide to Christmas 2019

The winners, losers and trends that defined the golden quarter

Christmas 2019 was far from merry for some retailers. Total sales in November and December dropped 0.9% year on year, while like for likes dipped 1.2%, according to the British Retail Consortium (BRC).

In some ways, retailers had the odds stacked against them. Mild weather in October hit fashion sales at the start of the season, causing a pile-up of stock; consumer confidence was unsurprisingly volatile as a result of the ongoing saga of Brexit; and the first December election since 1923 added an unhelpful distraction for shoppers.

All this led to cautious consumer spending.

Morrisons chief executive David Potts notes: “Consumer confidence has been low over an extended period now. That continued throughout this period, where consumers were quite a bit more than savvy.

“They were quite cautious in their spending, with concerns around the macro environment – the country’s economic prospects – as well as their own personal finances.”

Retailers had hoped for a sales fillip post-election with the certainty of a majority government being voted in. However, Sainsbury’s boss Mike Coupe says it brought “no significant change”.

Mixed fortunes

Against this backdrop, some retailers inevitably floundered. Card Factory, Superdry and Joules all issued profit warnings.

But it was not all doom and gloom, and there were many successes worth noting.

Confounding critics who claim the department store is dead, upmarket players Fortnum & Mason and Selfridges both reported impressive performances, with like for likes up 13% and 5% respectively.

Meanwhile, mainstream department store Next was a festive winner as full-price sales rose 5.2% between October 27 and December 28.

In this guide, produced in association with PwC and Cisco, we delve into the trends that shaped the 2019 Christmas trading period, what separated the winners from the losers and what lessons retailers can learn to nail Christmas 2020.

Chapter 1: Christmas trading league table

Click on the retailer’s name in the table below to find out more about its Christmas performance. 

Not all reporting periods are directly comparable. *Total sales, **Full-price sales, ºGroup revenue
Retailer Period Like-for-like sales 2019 (%) Like-for-like sales 2018 (%)
Boohoo Four months to December 31 44* 15*  
Asos Four months to December 31 20º 13* (three months to February 28)
Reiss Seven weeks to January 18 18* NA
Mountain Warehouse 13 weeks to December 29 16.2* 12*
Seasalt Five weeks to January 4 14* 35*
Fortnum & Mason Five weeks to December 29 13 12
Hotel Chocolat 13 weeks to December 29 11º 15º
Lidl Four weeks to December 29 11* 8* (six weeks to December 30)
Naked Wines 10 weeks to December 31 11* 15.9*
Greggs Three months to December 28 8.7 5.2
Aldi Four weeks to December 24 7.9* 10* (seven days to December 23)
Pets at Home 12 weeks to January 3 7.2 4.7
Very.co.uk Seven weeks to December 27 6.1 8.8
Dobbies Nine weeks to December 29 6 8 (six weeks to December 30)
Hobbycraft Five weeks to December 24 5.3 9.5 (six weeks to December 24)
Next Nine weeks to December 28  5.2** 1.5**
Dunelm 13 weeks to December 28 5 9
Selfridges 1-24 December 5* 8*
Primark 16 weeks to January 4 4.5* 4
Majestic Wine Three months to December 30 4.3 6.3 (10 weeks to December 31)
Booths Three weeks to January 5 3.5* 3.3*
Holland & Barrett Three months to December 31 3.3 NA
Spar Four weeks to December 29 2.6 NA
The Works 11 weeks to January 12 1.5 4.5
Halfords 14 weeks to January 3 0.8 -2.2
Matalan Five weeks to January 4 0.6* 4*
Tesco Six weeks to January 4 0.4 2.6
Waitrose & Partners Seven weeks to January 4 0.4 0.3
B&M 13 weeks to December 28 0.35 -1.6
Marks & Spencer 13 weeks to December 28 0.2 -2.2
Dixons Carphone 10 weeks to January 4 0 1
Card Factory 11 months to December 31 -0.6 3.4
Sainsbury’s 15 weeks to January 4 -0.7 -1.1
WHSmith 20 weeks to January 18 -1 0
Morrisons 22 weeks to January 5 -1.7 3.6 (nine weeks to January 6)
John Lewis & Partners Seven weeks to January 4 -2 1
Moss Bros 24 weeks to January 11 -3.2 -1 (23 weeks to January 5)
N Brown 18 weeks to January 4 -4* -1.6*
Joules Seven weeks to January 5 -4.5* 11.7*
Topps Tiles 13 weeks to December 28 -5.4 -1.4
Quiz Seven weeks to January 4 -9.3º 8.4* (six weeks to January 5)
Superdry 10 weeks to January 4 -15.8º -1.5º (four months to January 26)

Chapter 3: Who were the Christmas winners and losers?

In a broadly flat market, there were polarising performances from retailers and valuable lessons to be learned as to why some emerged as winners and others as losers.

Winner: Premium department stores  

Much has been made of the decline of the department store in recent years, but stellar performances from Fortnum & Mason and Selfridges show there is still life in the format yet.

Fortnum & Mason’s like for likes jumped 13%, while Selfridges’ total sales rose 5%.

Both retailers benefit from their ‘destination‘ status and invest to make their stores a ‘must-visit’ at Christmas. While Black Friday may be an online-dominated shopping event, PwC’s Tan points out that the majority of people still carry out their Christmas shopping in physical stores, so these efforts are worthwhile.

Fortnum & Mason used breathtaking visual merchandising to transform the exterior of its Piccadilly flagship into a giant animatronic advent calendar.

Meanwhile, Selfridges’ shoppers were wowed by a walk-in snow globe in its Birmingham store and the theatre of iconic toy retailer FAO Schwarz’s shop-in-shop, complete with the giant piano made famous by the Tom Hanks movie Big, in its London flagship.

It’s interesting to note that, despite a floundering toy market, Selfridges' toy sales surged 31% from December 1 to Christmas Eve, largely down to this new concession.

Selfridges managing director Simon Forster cited the retailer’s “extraordinary customer experiences” as a reason behind its success.

Exclusive product also played its part. Sales of Fortnum’s iconic hampers soared 24%, while its new non-alcoholic sparkling tea product accounted for one in nine bottles of sparkling drink sold at the store over Christmas.

Selfridges and Fortnum's show that shoppers will still gravitate to department stores that innovate, have unique products and provide true experiences.

Loser: Morrisons

Morrisons emerged as a loser in the grocery world as like for likes excluding fuel dipped 1.7% in the 22 weeks to January 5.

Boss Dave Potts said the run-up to Christmas had been “unusually challenging” as shoppers were cautious about their spending.

In a highly promotional grocery market, Morrisons’ decision not to run a Black Friday deal hit sales.

The supermarket has a much smaller general merchandise business –which drives Black Friday sales – than the rest of the big four, but had run ‘Black Fivedays’ deals on bigger value packs of products in previous years to capture sales during the discounting event.

It opted not to run the promotion during Black Friday 2019 and Potts admits it missed the “halo effect” of the deal.

“That’s one of the things for us to reflect on, because we have probably relied on that springboard toward Christmas a little bit more than we had assumed,” he says.

Winner: Mountain Warehouse

Mountain Warehouse is not exactly a Christmas destination, but it thrived – as it has for a number of years – over the festive period.

Fashion businesses may be blaming the weather for disappointing sales, but this outdoor retailer, which one could assume is also dependent on cold weather to sell its wares, reported an impressive 16.2% sales rise in its quarter to December 29.

Mountain Warehouse is a true specialist that knows its audience – outdoor enthusiasts and dogwalkers – but is also innovating.

Inspired by the success of Tiger and Hema, founder Mark Neale launched gift retailer Neon Sheep in 2017.

Sales at Neon Sheep more than doubled year on year during the golden quarter to £3.2m. The retailer has high hopes for the fascia, which has 25 stores, and plans to open a further 10 in 2020.

The new business has benefited from smart property deals in a depressed market.

Neale says the group’s success “proves the doom-mongers predicting the death of the high street are wrong”.

“If you have the right locations customers will come, and if you have the right products at the right price, and also provide great service, they will part with their hard-earned money,” he says.

Loser: Superdry

Superdry founder Julian Dunkerton promised he could save Christmas when he was reappointed to the fashion retailer’s board earlier this year.

However, that proved to be a false promise. The fashion retailer triggered a profit warning following a 15.8% sales slump over Christmas.

Superdry attributed its sales decline to “unprecedented levels of promotional activity” from competitors, weak consumer demand and slow trading on older product.

The market was undoubtedly promotional, but the success of retailers such as Mountain Warehouse and Superdry rival JD Sports show that some could overcome such issues.

Superdry’s inability to navigate this market shows the importance of having product that customers covet.

Although Dunkerton claims he inherited unappealing product from previous management, one has to wonder whether the Superdry brand still resonates with its target audience.

It was a weak performance all round for the retailer, but, in contrast to Mountain Warehouse, its store sales were particularly poor, plummeting 18.5% over the Christmas period.

One bright spot was that it increased its percentage of full-price product to 88% of sales, compared with a meagre 46% the previous year.

This is in keeping with Dunkerton’s turnaround strategy of reducing discounting and building margin. However, it remains to be seen whether not playing in this highly promotional market is a risk that will pay off.

Winner: Next

Next is often referred to as the industry bellwether, but it is more accurately described as an industry out-performer.

This Christmas, the retailer’s full-price sales rose 5.2% – 1.1% ahead of internal expectations – leading it to up its full-year profit guidance.

Next’s cross-channel approach, and longstanding credit business, helps the retailer offset declining sales in its stores. While full-price store sales dipped 3.9%, online sales advanced 15.3%.

The retailer said it benefited from a much colder November than last year and the business, which prides itself on its operational prowess, improved stock availability in store and online to make sure shoppers could snap up bestsellers.

Loser: Joules

By contrast, one of the shocks of the trading period was Joules issuing a profit warning because of stock availability issues online.

The retailer’s sales were “significantly behind expectations” as sales dropped 4.5%.

A spreadsheet error led to Joules not being able to satisfy customers’ online demand and, with ecommerce accounting for half of Joules’ sales, this had a dramatic impact.

The error led to a £6m sales shortfall and a £3.5m impact on profits, according to broker Peel Hunt.

Although Joules chief executive Nick Jones says it was a one-off issue, and the retailer has taken steps to prevent it happening again, it shows there is no room for operational error during the golden quarter.

Joules also blamed the later fall of Black Friday for a slump in half-year profitability.

Joules suffered an 81.7% crash in statutory pre-tax profit to £1.7m in the 26 weeks to November 24, after booking £6.7m of exceptional charges relating to stores, head office premises and changes in distribution arrangements.

Joules said the results were impacted by the timing of the Black Friday sales bonanza, which falls in the second half of its current financial year, as opposed to the first half of 2018/19.

Three lessons from the golden quarter

1. Getting Black Friday right is crucial

Black Friday is most definitely here to stay and retailers need to work out how to make this event – the new peak of Christmas – work for them.

First, retailers need to decide whether to participate in the melee. Morrisons’ Dave Potts admits not running promotions hit the retailer as it did not benefit from the “halo effect” it brings.

However, despite M&S potentially losing out on sales, chief executive Steve Rowe is determined to keep his powder dry in order to preserve price integrity at the business.

“I’m a big believer in getting your prices and value right. The long-term impact of discounting is that people don’t trust your value,” he says.

Perhaps Next’s approach is the way forward. The retailer moved away from its stance of not discounting outside of its end-of-season Sale in 2017, when it launched its first Black Friday Sale – however, there was a very limited amount of stock included in the promotion.

By advertising its participation, Next benefits from the Black Friday footfall – in both the physical and online worlds – and hopes to get shoppers buying full-price items.

Buying items especially for Black Friday is an approach that works for electricals retailers, with AO.com working with big suppliers up to a year in advance to guarantee deals.

The big challenge of Black Friday this Christmas was its late timing and ensuring it did not cannibalise full-price sales of gifts.

With Black Friday 2020 also falling late in November, it’s a challenge to be faced head-on again this year, but also an opportunity to implement learnings from 2019.

Being strict with cutting off promotions after Cyber Monday, and adding newness to the offer following the event, can help entice shoppers into stores and preserve margin.

PwC ACTION POINT 

“As Black Friday matures in the UK, it is a balancing act for retailers given only half of shoppers tell us that they are interested. However, we believe there is plenty of opportunity for organised retailers who are brave enough to communicate offers to shoppers, manage stock and margins, and offer genuine but selective, time-limited deals.”
Lisa Hooker, PwC

2. Provide great value and unique product

Retailers can no longer rely on shoppers splurging at Christmas.

The grocers in particular noted cautious behaviour and the trend towards value. Retailers need to make sure they are offering shoppers the value they crave – if they don’t, competitors will.

The big grocers all invested in price over Christmas to woo shoppers and Tesco has started the new year by launching a fresh wave of price cuts, in a sign it expects this trend to continue.

In contrast to the value trend, premium department stores fared well. The likes of Selfridges and Fortnum & Mason are experts in offering customers unique products they cannot get elsewhere.

To win at Christmas, retailers must offer customers great value but also provide ample opportunity to trade up and buy something unique from them.

PwC ACTION POINT 

“Consumers told us they’d spend a little less on Christmas this year, but the one area of spend that they continued to defend was food and drink. But, even here, ensuring there’s enough budget left for special treats meant economising in other areas, and successful retailers were the ones that recognised this.”
Kien Tan, PwC

3. Store experience can still woo crowds

Black Friday may be a predominantly online event, but shoppers still head to the high street at Christmas, where they are seeking inspiration and a true experience.

The success of Selfridges and Fortnum's shows the strength of in-store experience. The pair pushed the boundaries in terms of store design and added unique and exciting concessions.

It is not just premium retailers that can use this tactic. M&S’ new store format, which it has rolled out to three locations, has impressed shoppers, while Primark’s Birmingham store – its largest to date – is attracting coach parties. The store, which spans 160,000 sq ft and features beauty parlours and a Disney cafe, has become a true destination – particularly so since Primark has no ecommerce operation.

The store is not dead – boring stores are dead.

PwC ACTION POINT

“Unlike Black Friday, which was overwhelmingly an online phenomenon about buying for oneself, consumers are still looking for inspiration for Christmas gifts. It’s no surprise that destination shopping centres and department stores proved that they could continue to defy the downwards trajectory of footfall affecting many other high streets.”
Kien Tan, PwC

Partner messages

Lisa Hooker, leader of industry for consumer markets, PwC

Before Christmas, consumers suggested that they would spend a little less than in 2018. And that’s essentially what we saw: little or no growth across the market as a whole.

With little or no growth, there was greater divergence within the sectors. We saw some retailers outperforming in every category, while others significantly underperformed.

This year’s winners simply did a better job of encouraging consumers not just to spend more, but to spend more with them. They invested in their propositions, whether in price, range (including emerging trends), stores, payment options or multichannel and online offerings to differentiate themselves from the competition.

Looking ahead, it’s not all bad news for retailers. According to our January Consumer Sentiment Survey, shoppers are more confident and will be looking for reasons to spend. But, as ever, retailers will need to differentiate themselves from the competition, particularly as the battle for share of wallet intensifies in an environment where people will be spending the same, or even a little less.

"This year’s winners simply did a better job of encouraging consumers not just to spend more, but to spend more with them"

Retailers will need to give consumers a reason to shop with them. They need to offer the right products to the right people at the right time and for the right price, and make it easy to find the product, buy it and be able to afford it, whether that’s through credit or buy now, pay later.

It will also be increasingly important for retailers to be aware of – and be able to react to – relevant trends this year, such as conscious consumerism, the “green pound”, natural beauty, and ethical, sustainable and vegan products. They will also need to ensure communication with customers is relevant and, more importantly, recognise where they are engaging with it.

Understanding consumers and their customers in particular – how and where they shop, and how and where they want to shop – will be the differentiator for retailers looking for success.

Retailers that can effectively meet all of these challenges have every chance of success in 2020.

Retail Outlook 2020: Register now for exclusive early access

Amit Chetal, retail lead, Cisco

Retail is not just about the store or the transaction – it’s about the destination and lifestyle for each customer. Every day, consumers have choices: where will they shop, eat or go for entertainment?

The retailers that are winning are innovative, using integrated hardware, software and ecosystem partnerships. This enables them to drive an enhanced customer experience, driving lifetime loyalty.

The way people shop is changing – shopping centres and high streets with lines of shops are on their way out and all-day experiences are in. With retail spaces, customers are truly searching for a mash-up of entertainment, restaurants and shops.

For Cisco, revolutionising the store experience is top of mind. This was the main topic of discussion at the NRF Big Show 2020, the National Retail Federation’s annual conference: how to transform retail from just shopping for products into an overall lifestyle experience.

The key for retailers is how to connect their online and in-store experiences by marrying the best of both.

"On-boarding customers in a frictionless way is key to driving engagement, as is making it personalised and relevant"Add a quote source (optional)

During NRF, Cisco and its ecosystem partners showcased a new digital immersive experience by using the latest tech, including tap technology or near-field communication (NFC), combining wireless connectivity with location services to create a better customer experience.

NFC technology makes it easy and frictionless for customers to engage with the retail brand, wherever they are. On-boarding customers in a frictionless way is key to driving engagement, as is making it personalised and relevant.

This might be providing various interactive experiences for the customer: a trivia gamification aspect; a social area where shoppers can take and share images; a real-time sentiment survey; a chatbot function – all through their own mobile device.

With foundational technology investments, retailers can leverage data to gain key insights about shopper behaviour. This can better serve customers in stores, provide operational excellence and assist store staff to better serve customers.

Leveraging data-driven decision making is key to driving customer loyalty, basket size and a long-term connection with the customer – all of this made possible with technology.

Your complete guide to Christmas 2019
The winners, losers and trends that
defined the golden quarter

Written by Gemma Goldfingle
Produced by Helen Berry, Rebecca Dyer,
Stephen Eddie and Abigail OSullivan
In partnership with PwC and Cisco


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